DIY University by Sally Beauty

High lift hair color 101: Everything you need to know.

Tips & tricks for your brightest shade.

MEET OUR EXPERT

Gregory Patterson is a NY-based celebrity stylist and Sally Beauty hair expert regularly featured on shows such as “Good Morning America” and “The Today Show" as well as top publications like Allure, Cosmopolitan and Glamour.

In this article

What is high lift color?

High lift color is a type of permanent hair dye specifically formulated to lighten natural, uncolored hair several levels without using bleach. Unlike traditional permanent hair color, high lift formulas contain double the concentration of ammonia and peroxide and require double the amount of hair developer

“High lift hair color is designed to lighten your natural color while depositing tone in just one step,” explains celebrity hairstylist & ambassador for Sally Beauty Gregory Patterson. “Think of it as bleach’s more refined cousin with multitasking skills.”

Because high lifts are ideal for lightening without bleach, they are great for existing blondes, brunettes and redheads who want to brighten their look — as long as their hair is virgin, meaning never been colored, or are just retouching their roots.

Have questions?

Sally Expert Gregory Patterson recommends connecting with a Licensed Colorist for free expert advice. Through video or text chat, an expert can help you choose the right shade for your starting level, decide whether a high lift color or bleach is best and select the right products to protect & tone your hair.

Get started

Sally Beauty's go-to pick for high lift hair color:

bondbar High Lift Blonde Bonding Permanent Hair Color. It lightens, tones and repairs in one step. This innovative formula with bonding technology makes it easy to brighten your color with less damage.

Watch the video below for an all-over blonde tutorial using the collection.

High lift color vs. bleach.

High lift hair color is meant to lift uncolored, natural hair three to five levels and tone in one step. Bleach is meant for lifting previously colored hair and can lift up to nine levels. It’s designed for maximum lifting of color without controlling tone.

Is high lift hair color right for you?

High lift hair color is an option when you're aiming for a brighter shade without turning to bleach, but it's not for everyone. These ultra-lightening shades are designed for natural, uncolored hair. Also, choosing the right formula is key.

In order to choose your best formula, you’ll need to know your starting level, from one to nine, and your desired tone:

  • Warm: Caramel or honey
  • Cool: Ash or platinum
  • Neutral: A mix of both tones

Knowing your level will help you achieve your desired shade. For example, if you’re starting at level three and want to be a honey level six, you’ll look for a high lift in a warm series. Because you’re lifting three shades, you’ll need a 30 or 40 volume developer and double the amount of traditional color. Always read the manufacturer’s mixing instructions, and when in doubt, connect with a Licensed Colorist OnDemand for free, personalized hair color advice.

Your hair’s current condition also plays a role. According to Patterson, “The best results you’re ever going to get are on virgin hair — that means no semi, demi, permanent, or even henna-based color has touched your strands.”

If your hair has been previously colored or lightened, or if it’s dry or damaged, it’s a good idea to focus on rebuilding strength first. That’s where bondbar comes in. Our bond-building hair care line is designed to help protect your strands before, during and after the coloring process.

How to apply high lift hair color.

Step 1: Start by choosing the right shade based on your current hair level and the tone you want to achieve. If your hair is in need of moisture or repair, Patterson recommends treating it to a hydrating or reparative mask one to two weeks before your color. We love the bondbar Hydration Mask.

Step 2: Mix your high lift color with a 30 or 40 volume developer, depending on how much lift you’re aiming for (always follow the instructions on the box).

Step 3: Apply to dry, unwashed hair based on your desired color application technique (root touch-up, balayage, etc.) If unsure, consult a Licensed Colorist OnDemand.

Step 4: Process per the manufacturer’s recommended processing time, and follow with a nourishing conditioner or bond-building treatment to keep your strands strong and smooth. “Don’t rinse too early,” warns Patterson. “The tonal controlling pigments develop at the very end of the process. If you stop short, you miss your chance to control unwanted warmth.”

Expert tip:: Always perform a strand test first, and if you're unsure which formula to choose, pop into a Sally Beauty store and speak with one of our store associates for personalized advice.

High lift color for dark hair

If you want to try a high lift color on dark hair, look for a brand or series designed specifically for brunettes. “You can high lift dark hair,” says Patterson. “Just make sure you’re selecting a formula designed for levels one through five – otherwise, it won’t have the proper pigments to counteract brunette undertones like red and orange.”

High lift color on colored hair

Will a high lift hair color work on dyed hair? In a word, no. “Color does not lift color, and at the end of the day, a high lift is just that — permanent hair color,” says Patterson.

Does high lift color damage hair?

Anytime you’re coloring your hair, your hair’s quality can be compromised. This is why knowing the right product for the desired look and knowing your hair quality helps to better inform which product is best for the job to help minimize damage. Sometimes it’s better to go low and slow with bleach. Alternatively, you can save a step and go for a high lift shade that lifts and tones. Also, reparative add-ons can help prevent damage during the coloring process.

Hair bonding & high lift color.

Hair is made up of many bonds responsible for its health, strength and shape. When hair gets damaged, especially from hair color and bleach, those bonds break.

Enter bondbar bonding technology. It relinks those broken bonds, repairing hair from the inside out. This is why bondbar High Lift Blonde Bonding Permanent Hair Color is a great choice for the at-home colorist.

You’re already forgoing bleach to reduce damage, why not add an extra line of defense? You can achieve up to 71% less breakage with bondbar High Lift Color (compared to a standard color product) when you use it with bondbar Bonding Booster & Bonding Recovery. You can also check out the targeted bondbar system designed for blonde hair to make it a cinch to keep the results you love.

How to keep your shade bright.

You should retouch your color every three to six weeks or when you see half an inch of new growth. You can refresh your hair with a brief application of the same high lift color.

Patterson also recommends incorporating purple, green or blue toning shampoo into your hair care routine weekly to maintain brightness. “With high lift, you’re exposing more underlying pigment, so the right toning products are key.”

It all comes down to color theory. On the color wheel, purple is opposite yellow. This means it acts as a neutralizer, canceling out unwanted warmth to keep it bright. Bondbar Bonding Purple Shampoo significantly brightens all blonde hair & neutralizes brassiness after just one use. It also deeply hydrates. Pair it with bondbar Bonding Conditioner for a boost of nourishment and repair.

Using the same logic, blue cleansers like the bondbar Bonding Blue Shampoo counter orange tones, and green shampoos cancel red tones.

Dyed hair tends to be drier, so a weekly hair mask is a must. We recommend a bondbar Bonding Hydration Mask to add intense moisture.

How to care for your color-treated hair.

  • If possible, wash less often. No matter how often you wash, use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner.
  • Use a dry shampoo. Since you want to avoid washing your hair too often, dry shampoo is an ideal alternative for keeping hair fresh.
  • Always rinse with cool water. Hot water opens the hair cuticle, letting color escape. Finish with a dose of cool water to close cuticles, minimize color fade and promote shine.
  • Use a heat protectant. Styling tools can cause heat damage, which leads to color fade. Try to minimize the use of heat and air-dry your hair. If you reach for a hot tool, always use a good heat protectant.
  • Trim your hair monthly to keep your blonde looking healthy and shiny.

Hair products for color-treated hair.

Find everything you need to maintain your blonde hair while repairing, protecting and hydrating.

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