Your Guide To: Hair Toner
What is it? What type should you use? How do you maintain your new color?
We've got all your tips and tricks.
You've probably associated getting your hair colored blonde as bleaching, right? However, there's a massive catch you might not be aware of: Bleaching is not the same as coloring. If that were the case, your hair would end up an unnatural yellow. Bleaching is a technique that strips pigments out of your hair, which is why it's also known as pre-lightening during color treatment. There's another product you've probably heard about in your local salon, and this is where your color really comes from: toner. This article will explain everything you need to know about what toners are, which products to use, how to take care of your hair following treatment and why they're more than just purple shampoos.
What is Hair Toner?
Let's start with the first question on your mind. By definition, a toner is a product added onto bleached hair to neutralize and alter unwanted undertones, whether warm or cool. It works best on natural and bleached blonde hair as it alters the undertone and doesn't lift the shade — which is why it you should be careful when handling red or brown tones. Think of it as a topcoat as it also adds a glossy and healthy shine.
Toners for hair come in the following shades to achieve your desired effect: blue, green, violet, red, orange (copper), yellow and brown. They can be used to either cool, neutralize or warm your hair color. When it comes to choosing the right toner color, it depends on your base's depth and what you want out of it. Whether you want your color neutralized or enhanced, choose the following toners based on these bases:
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Light Blonde
- Purple toners for neutralizing unwanted oranges and yellows
- Gold toners for enhancing
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Medium/Dark Blonde
- Blue toners for neutralizing
- Golden and golden-copper toners for enhancing
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Auburn/Red
- Green toners for neutralizing
- Red-copper toners for enhancing
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Brown
- Ashy/beige blonde toners for calming
- Green toners for neutralizing
- Red toners for enhancing
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Black
- No toners will work on this base
They can be applied any way you want whether it's full head coverage, balayage or highlighting. Regardless of the amount, toners will leave your hair looking more natural and rich.
Why is Toner Needed?
Toners are more than just an accessory to your color treatment. They refresh and enhance your hair's tone, and they're a lifesaver for tackling any unwanted oranges, brassiness or yellows as bleaching exposes the hair's underlying pigments that can get damaged without further treatment. They also create a barrier around hair strands and add volume by plumping the cuticle, leaving hair soft and nourished.
What toners should be used?
Temporary toning products you may be aware of are silver shampoos and conditioners. Easy to use at home, these contain ultraviolet pigments that neutralize brassiness which form over time in blonde hair. While the results are on the subtle side, they can result in ashy, dusty or platinum shades and will often leave your hair brighter following your treatment. Be mindful when using silver shampoos and conditioners as they quickly wear off, but applying them between once to three times a week should be enough to keep you on top of your color.
Unlike silver shampoos, semi-permanent toners — Wunderbar Freestyle Color Semi-Permanent — offer more variety and durability, usually lasting between 10-14 days. With creamy and liquid consistencies, they can be applied straight after bleaching and come in a plethora of colors, even vibrant and pastel shades. If you're worried about potential damage, choose a semi-permanent toner containing acidic pH as they offer better protection and restore the hair's condition. To apply, leave on for 5-20 minutes depending on the hair's quality, shade and desired effect.
If you're looking for longer lasting results, demi-permanent toners — XP100 Light Radiance Demi Permanent Hair Color — are definitely the way to go, especially if you can't afford going to your local salon at the moment. Unlike permanent colors, oxidative demi-permanent toners wrap around the cuticle and create a color coating that washes away within 4-6 weeks. When mixing demi-permanent dyes at home, avoid a toner containing ammonia as they cause hair to go orange over time and choose a low-level developer for gentle application.
If you're unsure of which level developer to mix with demi-permanent toners, it's best to go for either 1.9%/6V or 3%/10V depending on your desired intensity. A 1.9% developer will offer a gentle toning lift and is best when used with foils. A 3%/10V developer is better for intense results on a full-head coloring while adding a tint on the same lightness level as your color. To apply, mix the toner and developer with a 1:2 ratio and leave on for 45 minutes.
How do I preserve toned hair?
The best recommendations for preserving your hair's new luscious tone are to avoid over-washing and go easy on heat styling. This can depend on your hair-care routine and the toning products you used. But more washing and heat styling in general equals more re-toning as both cause fading. If you want to show off your new color with bouncy curls or a sleek straightening, use thermal-protection spray before styling. Also, it's vital you don't wash your hair straight after toning as it will cause the pigments to slip out.
